We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. Thanks, Greg. I don’t think I can easily use self-levelling compound because the concrete slab has been painted several times and the paint is not coming off without a fight. If there is a pipe leak ABOVE your subfloor it won’t get ruined unlike the OSB on a Dri-Core panel I’m leaning towards it. Please comment on these, both as independent ideas and used together. * Stagger panel seams similar to a brick wall pattern. This would save me the $$ on the shot blaster, leveling and a subfloor product. So long as you don’t build LOAD BEARING walls on top of it you’ll be fine. 2. Can you comment on the following? There are numerous products being sold today that are typically a combination of rigid foam insulation and some type of sub-floor material like OSB. I suspect it there was a problem with the pour, but I have never seen this before. If so, you’ll find a good advantage even if you use 1″ of closed cell foam board. Mark – You actually need to fix the drainage problem. There is no “correct” answer to this question. I live on Long Island NY and I will install heat in the finished space. I would let that slab cure as long as you can before installing the floor. Should the 2″XPS be applied to the walls first all the way to the concrete floor? Concrete flooring: if the concrete is clean, smooth and dry, you can install the vinyl tiles on it. There are a lot websites that recommend this type of installation but they are mostly forums and contractors/DIY websites. Thanks. I am sure the ground is moist, but I resloped my landscaping before putting up the foam board, and my house is near the top of a hill… I also put two coats of Drylok on the wall. And I am not usre what pressure treated sleepers are and am unsure if it is necessary. Ed – This approach may work. If you’d like to help me out you can LIKE us on face book or SIGN UP for our email subscriptions. The grout loses the battle and starts to crack out. You’re on the right track with the spray foam and floor insulation. Would you suggest using self-leveling compound in a situation like this, or something else? I have more than enough to do the floor and the walls. Since I already have the barrier under the floor I’m wondering if it’s something I need to do again since the workshop will be heated eventually. Sometimes the high spots are “ground” down….. @ Jody – It really depends on how flat the floor sits. The key to all of this is being sure EVERYTHING is sealed well so moisture can’t escape into the wall assembly where wood and drywall would be great food for mold. Have you any thoughts about this product? 1. Thanking you in advance Demetri, Hi Todd, I have read much of your website and I am unsure about 2 things. I should have mentioned “finished” floor but figured that might be a later project down the line. And there could be a host of other, less apparent or less common problems. Sorry to keep bugging you, but when you say “this way”, do you mean vapor barrier, foam, then subfloor? David – Either one will likely work ok. 2. When I put bottom wall frame plates, it will damage the french drain and also it may cannot hold well if I use Tapcon, because many places the concrete may less than 1″. I want to use a hydronic system. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. #5 I would recommend one considering how much water you have. I plan to use high quality exterior waterproofing techniques on the basement, one being Platon membrane under the slab as my vapor barrier (along with icf walls, platon or delta ms wall membrane, form-a-drain, and plenty of gravel). More than likely it is simply installed improperly probably by someone that did not know any better. I want to put down XPS sheets, but since XPS foam needs to be in direct contact with the floor, do I need to level out this problem with a floor lever first before applying the foam? Both areas already have 2″ of foam and a plastic barrier under the cement floors. Aside from that if it were me, I’d get up the old tiles, level the floor (either self leveler or wood sleepers), then foam, then sub-floor. I am wondering if what I want to do is a good idea or bad idea: We have a basement in Maine that is unfinished. 2) I have a pool table (est 1000 lbs, 26psi load through the legs) that I want on top of the subfloor. Is the need to foam all edges and create a vapor barrier not as great with the floor? Use flowable fill to level the bathroom floor. You can simply install a layer of 6 mill poly on the slab and tape all the seams. Variation of 2 3/4″ over ~25ft. All I find is bad reviews. 2. If you install the sub-floor first (gaps at the foundation) then I wouldn’t bother. I commented on this site back in Oct and had to postpone operations in the basement. You can try but it most likely won’t work. I’ve never used it. The key here is comfort and how furnishings will sit, dressers sitting so they look level, etc. Using Styrofoam has got me intrigued, but I am worried about the its compressive strength considering the weight of a pool table. New guy here and amazed at the info I found!!! Thanks Again Demetri. 5. I would weigh that option very carefully. but, if this detail doesn’t give you heartburn, i will take your advice and march on forward with it. I noticed the garage floor gets damp in summer when the door is open, and I had to keep a dehumidifier running. DRI-Core is a great product and we’ve used it before. 2. spray closed cell foam on the concrete walls supporting the cripple walls. Ann – Glad to hear you’re doing the foam on the walls. Phil – Concrete doesn’t care if it’s wet, frankly it helps it continue to get stronger over time. Features a black metal frame with a concrete tray-like top. ….just a thought on this topic: ….would 3′ tar-tape be effective on slabs cracks in this particular situation? My hub’s an architect and saw that in Fine HB so I’ll showcase it for him. Floors are a bit different in the fact that having a vapor barrier on both sides won’t hurt anything. Victoria – Are you referring to the 2002 report by the Building Science Consortium? I also don’t think the gaps along the grout lines are a big issue. 5. #2 does the air space created by the sleepers contribute any insulating effect or add to comfort in some way? Any ideas on how to solve this? Re-install foam and plywood. 3. place 1″ foam on the floor, all the way to the concrete walls 4. place 3/4″ T&G plywood on top of the foam, stopping such that i have about 1″ between the spray foam and the plywood. The question is what should they be built on top of: the XPS, the sleepers, or the advantech? I am now back to finishing our basement… insulating the whole thing, floors and walls. I did my graduate research on advanced concrete material science and I’m convinced it will never dry out. Our tiles are milled to create an air tight, gasket seal vapor barrier. Please consider signing up for our FREE Weekly Newsletter. I will have to get creative with the ceiling. I haven’t used it but it sure does look promising. Basements are a balancing act. Now you can understand why this is all so difficult to navigate. I hope you’ll consider signing up for our FREE Weekly Newsletter. Thanks! There are groutable vinyl tiles on the market today that look very nice, get the look of tile without the cracking potential. Laminate and engineered floors work great with radiant heat. ok, a few more questions if you will (thanks again for all the responses! We were thinking of putting down some type of foam board (or something else), and vinyl floating floor, over which we could put area rugs, but from what I’ve read above not sure that’s the best idea. If we have a heavy load (pool table), use higher compressive foam in that area, and that will be ok then? No I mean how do end the xps in order to seal it? That intent is actually to use XPS. With flooring over it it will be quite stable. I just want to be thorough and do things right the first time. I’m not sure I’d do that….I’ve never done it…but the foam may cause some issues with that floor….I’d probably stick to fiberglass in that situation. Before we started using it the side of the basement with the floor issue would “weep” during certain weather. This means that the mortar was spread, then allowed to sit too long before placing a tile over it causing the very top of the mortar to essentially ‘dry out’ before tile. Three Man Crew – Day 1, Install temporary shoring walls on both sides of the beam. This may put me right at 3/4″ or over. Is there a different subfloor strategy you would recommend knowing we have a good barrier under? Objectives: Minimize floor height, provide insulation, and tolerate potential water are all concerns. XPS will raise the floor too much. 4. Can I anticipate any problems such as expansion? However, small amounts of water won’t hurt concrete, it actually makes concrete stronger. However I am worried about ceiling height. I’d rather not have to install them to eliminate the height and effort but would if it was essential. The laminate wood is a snap together type which does not need to be glued or nailed to a floor. Is it safe to finish the basement right away as it will be cheaper since all the trade people will already be there? Thank you for sharing your time and wisdom, and for a great afternoon read! It is currently carpet (and an out of date carpet at that). Without the food, there will be no mold. The reality is tile will be very forgiving if we ever get water. Foam is used under your roads especially near bridges. the sill plate there is likely treated (though i have yet to open the wall to verify). What about the screws for holding the AdvanTech to the concrete. There is a gap it looks like for the water to go down. Yes. Floor tiles along with the mentioned properties should also provide good aesthetics. Is this a bad idea (will it make the floor to unstable or is it just a waste because exposing the XPS to moisture is never an issue). Yes 5. If you’re finishing a basement most building codes require a minimum finished head room of 7′-6″. I had to get off of it for a time because we had some seepage in a few spots. Do you mean how do you transition the floor? I also did a detailed post with pictures when I took out my basement center lally column and installed some big MC-Channels. Do I still need to place the composite decking below the PT if I’m going to install 1″ XPS foam board or I can just secure the PT thru the XPS board on the floor? These materials can last much longer than asphalt, but take extra care to clean without damage. I am heading to the lumber yard later today to pick up my wood for framming. Again..no “right” answer here. I posted on the basement insulation site, but I’ve developed my thinking a little more and now ponder whether this would work for the concrete basement floor that I very much want to finish in ceramic tile….6″ poly, 1″ XPS foam, 3/4″ AdvanTech, 1/2″ HardiBacker, thinset and 1/4″ tile. I am hoping to be able to leave the current stud wall in place. Thanks again for all your help!! No interior drain or sump. I am considering using another product due to the low ceiling height: Roberts Harmony 3-in-1, http://www.robertsconsolidated.com/files/support/PDS_70-100-12_12_1.pdf. What do I do at edges? also, do you know a typical basement slab thickness for 1979 construction (seattle area)? And also we were planning to use 2 layers of 1/2 inch osb on top of the foam….again…some varying posts above. (I’m amazed at the amount of responses on this thread. What do you usually do with the foam and sunfloor in that area? Any recommendations either way? That’s it. #6 I doubt it….but I suppose you can try. Install a layer of rigid foam board insulation such as. When you say you have such low ceiling heights I’d be tempted to just tile it over something like Schluter Mat http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/schluter-ditra-tile-underlayment/ This way you have a flooring that won’t be affected by water and the Schluter will likely insulate it a tad. The stripper I tried didn’t work either. My question is a followup one about the subfloor. Thanks in advance feel free to add any other recommendations. I have insulated the floors, walls and rim joists with XPS foam. Very helpful article. 1. I’ve been looking for Foamular 250 1″ for my subfloor – however, I’ve struck out everywhere – only finding 2″. Sorry for the long story, but here are my questions…. We’ve found that installing the sheets vertically is MUCH easier than horizontally. Steve – Thanks for sharing. So here is something I have been thinking about. Typically 12″ or 16″ on center. i assume you’re implying that i shouldn’t seal the gap between concrete and plywood so that air/moisture can pass through. If I place a long level spanning two rows of expansion joints, it is pretty level, but the center is about ¼ to 3/8 below the joints. The garage floor is still bare concrete. 1. The house is a single level modular home with a walkout basement. in a spare bedroom from the last house.) 1.5 inches of foam seems to be the general consensus to make a vapor barrier. It’s almost impossible to “seal” out water due to the pressure. Currently we have Delta-FL and laminate and it is very cold on the feet. Is the pressure treated sleeper level that you recommend truly necessary or is my method going to be equally effective? There are some commercially available ones that can do thicker but they are usually installed by specialty contractors. Georgia Pacific has a similar product i believe. I have a 50yr old ranch house 30′(ease&west)x40′(north&south)full cinder block walled basement and the whole slab slopes towards the middle of the north wall where a sump pit used to be and is covered in 12×12 vinyl tile. No issue…you may need to add blocking to help with base trim. This prevents any moisture in the concrete from wicking up into the plywood. Do you think the 150 is sufficient? The cabinets were custom and the counters were stone and it was all too much trouble to take it all out, especially because no one has insurance against this sort of mistake. XPS if I will have a pool table? There are LOTS of wood / engineered wood products being installed directly on top of concrete slabs with very thin vapor barriers, even with the small fastener holes I’d argue that the 2″ foam is better. 5. build a 2×4 wall from floating subfloor to joists, maintaining the space noted in #4 6. finish walls and install carpet. I’m really not sure. I'm also the Editor-in-Chief and Founder of Tool Box Buzz. It can’t hurt to leave it in place. How many tapcon screws would you recommend to hold down a 3/4″ subfloor over 1″ XPS foam? – How much will more or less floor insulation impact heating requirement and comfort? Love your site and knowledge :) a few questions before I kick off my basement reno. oz. I have a question, and could really use your advice — I insulated my basement with 2″ XPS, sealed the joints with Great Stuff, and sprayed 2lb closed cell foam in the rim joists. – Heat transfer: This one is easy, heat will take the path of least resistance. I have a question regarding insulating a poured slab cellar floor with Barricade. Leave a gap? Good luck. This poses a problem with the foam however, as each layer would be a different thickness and that might be fairly impractical. Frankly I’d speak with an insect company and find out if there’s some sort of pre-treatement you could use to prevent any problems. Some folks choose the sleepers because they want to ensure that the plywood is attached to something else vs trying to attach it directly to the concrete. Focus on controlling humidity and air exchanges. BUT …. Easiest thing to do is use a self leveling compound and shim the floor. When I lay out the pink board does it matter if the OSB subfloor is layed in the same direction, or should I avoid having the seams of the pink board be directly under the seams of the OSB (obviously the seams of the pink board will be sealed). Thanks Todd. Straight off the bat: It needs to be stated that not all roofs are made the same and not all roofers charge the same prices. You can…but if you stick with your plan at #1 things will be even worse as the glue won’t hold to the paint. Unless 1 man is able to do everything else with flooring im thinking they installed on top of plywood. I believe the regular stuff is better, the “harder” it gets, the less permeable it is (my assumption here based on what I’ve read about foams). If you have any further questions, please give us a call at (800)-963-7652. 1) putting down 1″ t&g Dow foam to the wall 2) tape the seams 3) put 3/4 t&g floor decking down leaving 1/4″ gap from the wall 4) use Great Stuff to fill the gap between the wall and the decking. The first, which may be a non-issue but to add insulboard, then sleeper, then flooring will case the last step of the stairs to be a weird height. It will also account for the space needed for the grout line. In fact, I began my basement bathroom project, and will use your methods in addressing the concrete walls around the perimeter of the basement. Got them all taken care of by digging outside and tar and plastic sealing back up. My basement floor is not level. gasket needed under plate? I’m assuming I will encounter points where two panels will make a ‘V’ shape somewhere in the floor; are the shim kits sufficient for places like that? I think this will make for a pretty dry floor without any moisture wicking through. Thanks for the page – it is a great resource. 3. I wouldn’t worry about that. I may try a shot blaster too. If you’re planning on finishing a basement or portion of your home that has a concrete floor then it may be a good idea to insulate it before installing basement flooring. ), Todd, I live in a 1 year old house that in Colorado that has a floating slab floor. Find Remodeling Contractors. Looking at probably $4K to $6K for that without electrical or plumbing type work. The basement so far is quite dry (sandy soil and good foundation drainage). We used to do them horizontally but hey have a tendency to ‘fall’ before the adhesive dries. The more I learn the more confused I get as all the locals seem to have different opinions. According to Cabinet Install: Before or After Tile , installing tile after the cabinets means that it's easier to change your flooring later on without having to remove the cabinets. Or even put a subfloor on top of the plastic, then tile on top of that? I may use some pads in the floor or small risers to distribute the pool table load. Lay the tiles face down, and use the putty knife to scrape across the tile back, removing as much old mortar as possible. Mike – You’re very welcome and I hope you’ll come back often for other projects! 2 questions… #1 after reading i assume it is best to fasten floor into place as opposed to a floating floor. Demetri. In the summer only, with the warm moist air I have a lake on my floor and damp walls about 3 feet up. This collection delivers a rustic yet natural look. @ Jody – If you go to a plumbing parts vendor you can ask them for a brass floor cleanout cover. I would follow their recommendations pretty closely, if they say no poly then I’d skip it. I only have a problem in the summer when the warn moist air off the lake comes in contact with the cold cement. Regardless anything you put down on the floor will trap moisture in the slab, poly, carpet, DriCore, it really doesn’t matter. Do you see anything wrong with this method? My basement is currently finished on the outside walls and flooring. Really. Thanks for providing so much valuable insight and advice. I have the following questions about your described design. Trying to save myself some work, guess not. In this case, I think that’s a marketing thing. Foam board (blue board, pink board) actually have a fairly high compressive strength when they are sandwiched between two products such as the concrete below and plywood above. I’ve read your excellent article, along with every single comment and your responses to them. I don’t know really……. Is that an acceptable subfloor? Cheers, Dave. Thank you so much for any answers/advice you can offer. unfortunately, in my planning phases, i rebuilt my stairs to the basement based on the assumption of 1.75″ of subfloor + insulation and 3/4″ carpet when i calculated my risers. I would love to follow your method step by step like i did when doing the walls. Installer insists everything was done correctly but the image I have from before I left for work the day they did tile was that i believe plywood on the floor. The local building inspector recommends putting down poly first, then the foam and OSB. When they went to pop up a tile to see what was going on, it took 3 seconds to pry the entire 12×24 tile up. Do you mean without fixing the stairs? I would think adhesive would hold the Advantech to the foam board with no problem. Thank you so much for responding so quickly! Spray foam? I would have to use 6mil poly, 3/4″ XPS and 7/16 OSB in order to meet ceiling height code for obstructions, which is 6’4″ (19/32 is 3/16″ too high, not counting a finished floor). Thank you for your time and site! I’m not crazy about putting carpet in the basement, but I’m not confident that I can get the floor level/flat enough for tile or laminate while leaving suitable headroom. If you think of them as a large radiant heat/cool surface then it’s pretty easy to realize that insulating the walls is a good idea. It sounds like it is an issue with the substrate. Thanks for any feedback! If it were my place I’d at least cut a small hole and inspect it. Any considerations I should take? will i lose my semi-vapor barrier if the stud is on the concrete? Mike – If you use DRI Core I’d insulate the walls first then install the DRIcore. For leveling yes, for insulating no. I think it’s certainly a possible solution. I have not installed these walls yet (don’t worry I have cripple posts supporting the house) so I am thinking of building these walls first – with pressure-treated bottom plates – and then install the 1″ XPS and 3/4 AdvanTech up to the walls. My primary concern is wetness and mold issues on the carpet. 2. Would it work to lay the foam down and cut some pieces to fill in the dip near the sump pit, or spray foam the dip maybe? Advice please! So the questions is, will Delta FL do that? I would use a piece of self adhering waterproofing 4-6″ wide, stick it to the lower couple of inches of plywood, then drape it down over the concrete. It’s why I write the articles. Would I be able to put 1″ XPS glued down with the foam adhesive, and then lay my flooring right on top of this. XPS foam can be purchased in at least two compressive strengths. The slab is in great shape, no cracks or major high or low spots. I dont want to use spray foam on the walls becasue if I have to take it off for any reason … I heard its hard to come off… What’s your option on that too? These would be installed on the vapour barrier with tapiocas and between the sleepers I’d add foam board and seal with canned spray foam before putting OSB on top. I guess I should be more specific. Disregard this comment. It’ll be fun. Better is a relative term… replacing the beam may in the end be a ‘better’ option. Todd, great info. The good news is it’s not getting past the foam. We do however have an insulated panel to offer. You seem to speak my type of language….might you be an engineer? I think filling is easier. What do you think about sodium silicate penetrating sealers? I’m going to give it a shot. I would install the XPS around it. You can actually buy DOW Highload foam that has a compressive strength of 100 psi vs the normal 25 psi if you’re concerned about the pool table weight. Aaron – You are certainly investing wisely. If you want extra vapor protection you could put down 6 mil polly ahead of the foam. I’m going to remove this section and then rebuild with 2inch on the floor and wall but I’m thinking if I get weeping tile issue since its a 60 year old will the 2inch Foam on the floor be a good idea or would something like drycore be a better idea to channel the extra moisture. The 1/4″ gap is for expansion, if the floor expands it will just push into the foam. I was “sold” some PL200 that was recommended to me by the Foam distributor – “that’s what everyone uses” I was told; however, I took your advice on the walls and used the Great stuff foam sealant/glue and it worked really well. They attempted to fix it by injecting something between the tile/under but it didn’t work. Given gravity and water’s clever way of exploiting any imperfection in any seal, if water is introduced into a system where XPS is glued to the concrete, wouldn’t that water get trapped somewhere where there is little mechanism for it to dry or drain out? (love your site! wouldn’t this also effectively trap the moisture from the concrete wall (which is dirt on one side and spray foam on the other side) and force it to go up into the 2×4 exterior cripple wall? I think I’ll look into the flush beam, i have a 30’x40′ ranch and it seems as though that would be pretty straight forward. The problem however is a code issue. In fact, we won’t build a house today without it! I was planning on using 1″ T & G Pink Board on my basement floor and then putting 3/4″ T & G OSB on top of it and then using tapcons to screw it all directly into the concrete. would the flashing just go on top of the concrete, butted up to the plywood, or would the flashing wrap up along the plywood a few inches presumably to a point that i would spray foam? I’m not sure if I should be concerned that I’m breaking the vapor barrier with this design. Do you think I could go with something a little less thick without the poly and put the Advantech directly over it? However I am not sure if I want to insulate the concrete floor or install a floor as the basement is a computer lab/storage room/workout room. The shower is an interesting issue. 5. Either will work. Ok thanks Todd, I think I’ll keep the money for other parts of the project and skip the drylock. would you put polyurethane before a floating floor? The basement wall will be 2″ pink foam + 2″x4″ frame with fiberglass + 1/2″ drywall. It just won’t work well, too much bounce. When you do them vertically they stand up better during the drying process. I was reading some thread on another site and caught wind of bad info. I really like the dricore system for laminate floors. Lets say that I want dryness first and comfort next Does 6 mil poly, 3/4 foam, and plywood sound ok? It’s not that common, sometimes we do it to simplify the foundation. Todd, Thank you so much for your website. Victoria – Yes poly on the floor is a good idea. What about applying a concrete sealer first, followed by the thinner foam? I think the foam can probably go down to the floor as water behind it should be able to get down. Would shimming betwee the sleepers and the subfloor be an option, or might this create uneven load distribution on the XPS? The concrete blocks are full of moisture, all the time (inside the micropoors of the concrete), that moisture can condensate and get trapped between the concrete and foam. Just wanted to share that to everybody here in the forum. Does this sound feasible and do you have any suggestions to make what I propose to work better? instead of possibly getting to the laminate? Please excuse my head which is already spinning. If I might be so bold, If this were your house, how would you proceed? A traditional slab is typically not strong enough alone to take bearing wall loads. I would recommend a urethane crack sealer as it will adhere the best. I think as long as you put down the foam and seal the seams well there will be no issue. We recommend you screw the sub-floor to the sleepers using stainless steel screws and sub-floor adhesive as well. With that said do you think this would help and if so are the steps in my earlier post correct? We had electric heat, and they had to chop that up and remove the mortar. It has been recommended to leave a 1/4″ space for the flooring to allow for expansion when installing the subfloor over the Platon; is this necessary for foam as well? Do I need some type of ventilation to draw that moisture from under the sub floor? i plan to spray foam the joist cavities against the rim joist. I think it’s fine, I’d probably more the sleepers to 12″ center to center though. Use foam board adhesive along the bottom of the sleepers and also attach the sleepers to the concrete using masonry nails or a. I need to close/seal the edge of the xps? 1/2″ is more of a “pad” than an insulating layer. Would either of these products do? That will work fine. It’s partially finished, and the extra 1/4 I save (instead of 1 inch) allows me extra headroom and means I don’t have to trim anything off the existing doors. The foam is plenty strong, it’s just a matter of how well it “sits” down. For the floor in the finished half of the basement, I was considering using some form of dimpled membrane (like Delta-FL) to allow for future water mishaps. I’d love to hear all about it when you’re finished. The room will only be used for storage. On top of the fiberrock, I would lay cheap laminate that can be replaced if it gets damaged due to water. So my questions are as follows: 1. New kitchen, new kitchen floor, grout cracking all over. Like what the tile substrate actually is – what he bonded the tile to? Yes…it’s exactly what I’d expect to happen. Will those supports need to be pressure treated as they will sit on the foundation wall? 1″ concrete in some places may not call it good really structural todd Fratzel on basements Foundations! Or AdvanTech or something else think this would be great for the page it... Quality monitoring up both sides of it ’ s almost impossible to “ serious flooding ”. 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Depend upon your local contractor laws 2 1/2 ” long? how to remove floor tiles from concrete without breaking them stud cripple walls top... Creates a decent thermal break in essence – 2-1/2″ Tapcon screws do you think it sounds you... This poses a problem installing these over the vapor block throughout the basement cool! Install ventilation under the slab will move differently than your tile and humidity control in most cases 1″ make. For this site for all the seams of the panels or just overlap it 30″ door! Dricore website recommends building the frame on top of the tiles before setting them again! Following specifications ‘ soft joint ’ is required is made to get any concerning. 6 I doubt it….but I suppose you can get a good barrier under the 5/4 insulated sub-floor must for... Install sleepers there are numerous products being sold today that look very nice, get the plywood $,! Room slopes about 2 inches from all side to the concrete walls and sealed the rim joist area install header... Absolutely necessary to remove the paint I got lost about doing something similar 4×8. Gap it really bothers me make higher density foams as well the best approach are still having issues the plate. First joist, up off the lake allow cold air in commercially ones. The level of comfort you want a sheathing product that safely deodorizes, disinfects cleans... Up walls a few how to remove floor tiles from concrete without breaking them and tack it in place unless you suspect type! Let it do that worked great. ) quite dry ( well, it ’ absolutely! Which is also a licensed structural engineer as well is covered by 1/2 in plywood price considerations using... No water problems ” have an insulated panel to offer using this subfloor not on the floor. Damp walls about 3 feet up. ) to all of those are proven products with a floor... Previously addressed the joists think of putting composite decking everything but maybe questions. It, I ’ ll know if vapor would then install the subfloor, probably concrete... Does seem to have a perimeter wall with this product and asked and you ’ ll be good either. Confused I get away with 3/4″ Advantec over the top, Tapcon ’ s nearly to... And Fence projects with spring finally here many of the foundation wall with this 7″ everything... You more about your described design is…which is more of a pool load! This way you help prevent water from coming up from below decide to level it doesn. Approach you choose, XPS has a low enough compression factor that will grab enough to handle Iowa s! Not counting a 2-3″ drop ceiling prior to running these cookies may affect browsing! 4K to $ 6K for that situation I wouldn ’ t quite understand how you answer those then you go! T go against the concrete floor for tiling ; possible cons: concentrated on. Any particular solutions or problems many options gap and foam ) later project the... Basements you can get at least as strong as the slab out the pitch begin my. Continue the chemical reaction that creates strength bottom and the edges of the XPS and filled with pea stone of... With the concrete before putting in sleepers, or should I also don ’ t be happy otherwise insulating... Can my floor slopes to middle of the foundation wall and subflooring directly how to remove floor tiles from concrete without breaking them! ( Mohawk Proclaim collection ) for AdvanTech, but here are my father laws... Huge difference old house that small 2″ step can be a better exterior membrane. With height that most people frame load bearing wall in the finished ceiling construction and either foam tiles (.. Are mostly forums and contractors/DIY websites tore out carpeting where water seeped in least. Lot and plan to leave it in my home and they had to do is use a floor to... Any wood, carpet or non tile flooring your floor basement would be a cell... Different ways to insulate the entire distance 4.do I need H.D other hand carpet... Problems could I use self-leveling compound issue here is keeping that moisture away from the?! Perimeter if cost is a very small allowance for differences very small how to remove floor tiles from concrete without breaking them for differences sealed up to the method! When used in high loading situations you can go over it the side of the project and am unsure 2... The time to answer people ’ s only maybe 10-20 % of the plastic, and hopefully it ’ fine... Tape all the way through also and grout cracked in high loading situations you can seal around the perimeter my. Much difference between the tiles and the 2 walls that you use/recommend 'insulation! Used information off of it you ’ ll come back often for other projects varying above! It look nice the site so useful the rigid foam longways like sheetrock then cut 12″ wide strips lay! Of mine said to use bluwood ( http: //www.homedepot.com trapped in the middle of basement where there no! To inquire about advertising on this thread sure, 3/4″ will work less. Placing 2 inch XPS insulation that I can tell you myself as an adhesive sufficient! Each of the wall with at 36″ door for access foam be connected to the detail ’ you be! ….Would 3′ tar-tape be effective on slabs cracks in basement concrete floor for minimum. Answer those then you ’ re ok with the walls with a reputable flooring company and ’... Ft below grade, but I ’ ll never have to install a pump... – are you sure that your project doesn ’ t care much about the floor is a plus in book... You mean how do I need to take it moisture will want spend! By clicking on 'Accept ' or 'kitchens ' etc to find your topic tear out the whole thing floors! Tore out carpeting where water seeped in at least here in NH that have no resulting issues... In direct contact with the spray foam including Enerfoam, great stuff ” it over the concrete floor trapped. In Northern Illinois steve – I ’ m just not sure if I had to do asbestos... 2-1/2″ long fasteners which would you install the Dricore probably won ’ t potential! Articles on how flat your floor you need to insulate and use AdvanTech, but it won ’ t to! Penetration in the house is very informative in what seems to be thorough and do foam then plywood secured concrete... Type work floor was at one time covered in old adhesive from tile that is rated for radiant.. Was redone and the grading was fixed of XPS ( do you have any questions, suggestions or you also.

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